Vacation 2005
28 Oct - 6 Nov
(The better late than never edition)

As one of my friends mentioned India is like a more tightly integrated Europe. One large country with several cultures. Why travel to Prague to experience exotic culture, Patiala is a lot closer (and likely to be a richer experience). Now that I am back in India after 8 years I have decided to use most of my annual vacation to travel around the country. I got two such opportunities this year - in October (Madurai, Thirunellveli) and in November (Agra and Rajasthan). This travelogue is an account of my trip in November.

The last time I have traveled north of the Deccan was way back (about 15 years) when LP, SP, Cheeni, my parents, and I visited Darjeeling. So this is really my first trip up North as an adult.

Our overall plan was:

Ramakrishna peripa had arranged for accommodation at all of these places.  We planned to hire taxis to get around locally at each place.

Agra

Taj Mahal We spent the night of the 28th in Delhi at Ramakrishna peripa’s house. The next day we left for Agra by train (Shatabdi). We reached Agra mid-morning and were picked up at the station and dropped off at a hotel (Hotel Amar). After spending some time lounging around, drinking tea etc we ventured out to see the sights. A taxi was arranged by our local contact to take us around.



Fatehpur Sikri


We first visited Fatehpur Sikri. Built by Akbar this was the capital of the Mughal empire for a short while. The main tourist attraction here is the Jama Masjid. The masjid complex is built out of red sand stone and architecturally pretty cool. Incidentally, Fatehpur Sikri is a designated UN World Heritage site.

Several “authorized” tourist guides offered to show us around the place.  I was not really interested in an organized tour for two primary reasons - (a) the purpose of my visit was a few cool snaps and (b) I am not sure about the authenticity of many of the “facts” touted by these guides. The “official” guide business seems to be a racket. Several of them dropped the asking fee from Rs. 200 down to Rs. 50 (I just kept ignoring them and they kept dropping their price). One of the guides tried a different approach - he claimed to be a volunteer at the mosque and not a guide. He would show me all of the interesting spots in the complex for no fee!! He also mentioned that if I went in by myself I would be “hassled” by beggars and other undesirables but if I went with him they would keep away. After we repeatedly turned him down he walked away muttering curses. In any case I got a few good pics.
Jama Masjid Doorway
Jama Masjid doorway


Fatehpur Sikri (the city of victory), built by Akbar, was the capital of the mughal empire for only about a decade. It is 40 Kms away from Agra. The main tourist attractions are the Jama Masjid and the complex that encloses the palace. Both these structures are built out of red sandstone. The Jama masjid complex houses a mosque and the dargah of a sufi saint - Salim Chisti. The architecture on the doorway and inside of the roof of the masjid has some intricate marble work. Besides the gate and some cool workmanship in the mosque there is nothing more of interest in this area (unless you are into the religion).

We spent about 30-45 mins at the mosque and then moved on to the palace complex. The palace has several structures - Diwan-E-Aam, Diwan-E-Khaas, Panch mahal and a bunch of other stuff including the square where Tansen sang for the court. We took our time walking around the palace taking snaps and checked out if Tansen's seat is still comfy.

window  panchmahal
building
Windows overlooking Diwan-E-Aam Panch Mahal Diwan-Khana-E-Khaas

Diwan-E-Aam was a courtyard meant for granting public audience. This was the forum where the average city bloke could put his complaint or farmaish to the king. The DiwanKhana-E-Khaas for private audiences with the king and his ministers. The other notable buildings in this area are three palaces - one for each of Akbar's queens, the five storied panch mahal, a treasury, and a garden. 

Surprisingly Agra is blazing hot even during November. Spending even a few hours outside is dehydrating and leaves one feeling drained out. After spending about 1.5+ hours pottering around the palace complex we took a break for lunch and them moved on to the next item on the agenda - Taj Mahal.



Taj Mahal

Taj The Taj clearly needs no introduction. As most people know it is a marble tomb/mosque built by Shah Jahan in memory of his queen Mumtaz. However, this structure is not quite the pearly white edifice we are used to seeing in various TV ads. It more grey than white these days thanks to pollution from local industry. Taj

Security at the entrance to the monument is pretty tight. Everybody is frisked and has to go through a metal detector. I really dont know why this place has such high security presence. Maybe the government feels it is likely to be a terrorist target since the Taj is probably the most visited tourist monument in India. In any case the security guys at the entrance will not allow you to take your mobile phone inside. We were pre-warned so we left our mobiles in the car. They gave my camera bag a thorough once-over. One of them wasn't so happy about my carrying in a large 400mm lens but let me through after  a chat with his super.

Taj Camera fees are collected once you get inside the security cordon. There is a nominal charge for still cameras and a whopping (by Indian standards) Rs. 250 for a video camera. The board near the kiosk selling passes informed us that the camera pass will allow us to video-graph but only upto a certain distance from the monument. Since we had a video camera we got a camera pass. Less than 10 meters from the kiosk we were stopped by a guy wielding a stick who pointed to a small sign that said "No video cameras beyond this point". What the...!!! The kiosk sells you tickets so that you can get 10 meters closer - the zoom lens on the camera will probably be good enough to cover that distance. What a ripoff. Here is what we got from a distance.

The visit to the Taj was a little underwhelming. The ambiance is not what it is made out to be. The crowds are huge and noisy. You cannot get a wide-angle snap without lots of people in the foreground. Also, the entire area is covered in smog. The haze is not apparent when close to the monument. But from a distance you can see that the Taj is shrouded in smog - check out my photo above (this is despite a UV haze filter I had on). Overall recommendation: visit if you have never seen it before.



Lal Quila

Jodha Bai's palace
Jodha Bai's palace
The Lal Quila at Agra is yet another sandstone structure. The construction of the fort was started by Akbar and then completed (some pieces replaced) by Shah Jahan. We entered the fort via the Amar Singh gate.  By the time we got there it was pretty late in the evening and the light was fading. We barely spent 30 minutes inside the fort before the place closed down for the day. We visited the two major sites inside the fort - Jehangir Mahal and Jodha Bai's palace.

Inside the fort is another area - the Musamman Burj - where Shah Jahan was incarcerated by his son Aurangzeb. Shah Jahan supposedly spent his final years gazing at the Taj Mahal through a small slit in the wall. Today looking through the slit one can barely make out the silhouette of the Taj. I overheard a guide escorting a small crowd mention that in "olden days" there was a lens fit into the slit to give an enlarged view of the Taj - a medieval telescope. I think the guide was just BSing. One of the few reasons I did not want a one during this trip.

After completing a whirlwind tour of the fort we headed back to the hotel. We spent the night at Agra and left for Jaipur in the morning by rail.
Entrance


 
Next: Jaipur